The art of waiting for ramen
Travel highlights from Japan, one of my favourite countries in the world
Hello! I’m Wing, a travel writer and editor/lifestyle journalist based in Toronto. Most of my stories run in publications like the Toronto Star, Canada’s biggest daily newspaper. But I have more tales to tell and tips to share outside of those features. This is my own little space for that. For now, it’s a creative experiment. Thanks for reading!
Would you wait 90 minutes for noodle soup? I’ve wasted more of my life on sillier things. On my recent trip to Tokyo, each time I tried and failed to get into Ginza Hachigou, I felt more stubborn about succeeding. Besides, if queuing is an art form in Japan, let’s call this a cultural immersion.
Ginza Hachigou is a six-seater ramen joint run by chef Yasushi Matsumura. He spent decades in French cuisine before opening this place, where he’s noted for his more refined take on noodles. Michelin once bestowed a star but now grants only Bib Gourmand status.
Still, this remains one of the city’s best ramen restaurants, according to Tabelog, the reviews site favoured by locals. (Bear in mind: the Japanese judge with high standards, so a 3.5+ rating means a solid choice, not a mediocre one.) The restaurant was just a short walk from my hotel. So I wandered over casually one morning. How naive.
Of course, I didn’t get in. There are only 30 spaces for walk-ins per day, as Time Out points out. So even though Ginza Hachigou doesn’t officially open for service until 11 a.m., the lineup/cutoff guessing game starts long before then. (Yes, there’s a reservations system; spots are still near-impossible to get that way.)
Attempt two: I arrived at 9:20 a.m. Minutes too late.
Final try: 9 a.m. Success! As I patiently waited to be seated, I watched the restaurant’s queen of the queue enforce the rules. And there are many. The Japanese love order.
The man who wants to dine in the tiny space with a baby stroller in tow? Sorry. Two ladies try to save a spot for a tardy husband. They’re almost demoted to the back of the line, where they risk missing out. But all’s well that ends well: the absent husband (graciously or under duress?) opts out.
After 90 minutes, they let us in early. I’m offered a bib to protect from soup spatter, along with an elastic to tie back my long hair. In Japan, there’s an attention to tiny details that I deeply appreciate. Everyone in the restaurant eats efficiently and in deferential silence. One guest slurps back his noodles in 15 minutes flat.
The consommé-like soup is clear and light but full of umami, despite the lack of tare (concentrated seasoning sauce). The noodles are delicate and balance well. I could, however, do without the signature wonton with foie gras and truffle, which feel like unnecessary (and distracting) frills.
Would I return? Yes, especially if I can score a reservation.
My Travel Tips for Tokyo
This past fall, I travelled to Japan to do a press trip on the southern island of Kyushu, then spent several days solo in Tokyo as a sort of mini vacation. I’ve visited the capital multiple times before, but I never feel I’ve seen enough.
Here are some basics I would tell you if you’re planning a trip:
Go in the off-season. Japan is experiencing record-smashing levels of tourism. When I visited Tokyo at the end of October/early November, the crowds were noticeably bigger. I could barely walk through Shinjuku’s narrow Memory Lane. I’d rather come at a quieter time, like late winter (early March), before cherry blossom season.
Consider staying in Ginza. That’s where I based myself on my last three trips, within walking distance of Tokyo Station (a major transit hub, key for travel to other cities). The pluses for me: It’s lively but not chaotic; the neighbourhood’s known more for fancy shopping than nightlife. It’s close to the Imperial Palace for running. I can walk to lots of food options, and it’s easy to hop on a train to reach other neighbourhoods.
Let Google Maps show you the way. On my first trips to Tokyo, I wasted so much time getting lost, bewildered by cryptic addresses and twisty streets. Being able to see my live location — and my proximity to, say, the tiny restaurant hidden in an alley — makes all the difference. (Also, if you can’t find something: it might not be on the ground floor.)
Pin all the places that pique your interest in Google Maps. I’ll do this whenever I hear about a cool spot — a museum mentioned in a magazine, a restaurant that just won an award, or a shop I noticed on IG — “bookmarking” it for future reference. I curate a map for each city/town. And when it’s time to plan an itinerary, I can see, at a glance, which places are close enough together to visit on the same day.
Where I Went in Tokyo
This isn’t a comprehensive city guide or best-of list. These are just some highlights I’ve enjoyed, and maybe you will, too.
I’ve linked directly to each place in Google Maps, so you can save what you like for a future trip.
Time Out recently named Jimbocho “the world’s coolest neighbourhood in 2025.” It’s chockablock with bookstores, around 130 (!) of them. Kitazawa Bookstore’s upper floor is a trove of old and rare English-language editions, while Komiyama Book Store and Magnif stock vintage fashion magazines.
Jimbocho is also famous for Japanese curry restaurants. While searching for the popular Curry Bondy, I chanced upon a street-level sister restaurant (?) in a back alley; it serves the same curry for lunch and there was only a short lineup.
If you favour udon over ramen, try Udon Maruka. I didn’t have a lot of sushi, but the casual Sushi no Midori was fresh and pretty affordable. Since the city’s abundance of culinary choice can feel overwhelming, especially if you’re not fluent in Japanese, this is a great place to book a locally led food tour.
If you have the patience for yet another long line, the hip coffee spot is Bongen (mostly takeout since seating is minimal).
If you’re a runner, you must do a loop of the Imperial Palace, one of my favourite routes in the world. The perimeter is 5k, uninterrupted by traffic.
Tokyo is renowned for its luxury resale shops, in part because Japan’s anti-counterfeiting laws are strict, so you can be more confident the wares are legit. I splurged on a Céline handbag at the huge Komehyo Shinjuku. (Bonus tip: Komehyo has a website listing its goods across stores, so you can search for what you want, and then head to the location that has your item.)
If I had more luggage space (and hadn’t splurged on a designer purse, ahem), I would’ve bought more in Kappabashi Kitchen Town. Ceramics, cooking tools, tchotchkes, it’s all here. I did pick up a made-in-Japan knife from Tojiro, known for quality at an affordable price point. Across the street is Kama-Asa, which makes an allegedly trendy cutting board.
I also bought: apple jam sandwich cookies and other snacks at Muji; jeans from Uniqlo x JW Anderson (the same styles are more petite in Japan); sunscreen and makeup from the department store Loft. In the Ginza neighbourhood, you can visit big locations of all three stores mere steps from each other.
In general, I think “immersive art” is gimmicky (no, I do not need to see digital Van Gogh projections on a wall), but I found TeamLab Borderless clever and entertaining, especially the interactive features. Go with friends if you can (it’s more fun), and book tickets well in advance.
If you have time for just one shrine, go to Meiji Jingu. The forest setting feels peaceful, even with tourists around. You can buy an ema (votive tablet), write your wishes, aspirations or note of gratitude, and hang it by the camphor tree.
I’ve pinned all of the spots above — plus some other places I like — here:
Where Else I’ve Been Lately
AUSTRALIA: “I visited one of the world’s great whale-watching destinations, where sightings are all but guaranteed”
B.C. WINE COUNTRY: “B.C.’s most delicious destination? I visited Canada’s first UNESCO ‘City of Gastronomy,’ and that was just the start.”
Last But Not Least
Whew, this is much longer than I originally intended. Thank you for reading the debut edition of this newsletter! It’s a work-in-progress, so I’d love to hear what think or want to see. Have a travel-related question? Send it my way: wing@wayword.ca.
You can support this free newsletter (thank you!) by forwarding it to your friends, sharing it on social media or tapping the heart ♡ below. I wish you a wonderful holiday season. See you in 2026.
Love this! Felt like I was waiting with you 😅 can’t wait to read more. Would love a future post on hacks for knowing if you got a good deal or anything related to budget conscious travel.